Category Archives: Travel

Agios Nikolaos, Crete

Agios Nikolaos is the home of a bottomless lake (60 meters in depth). What’s interesting about this lake is that it has the same urban legend about Jacques Cousteau that Santorini’s caldera has. In both locations, the bottom is invisible to the naked eye. In both cases, there is a legend about some connection to Atlantis. In both cases, Cousteau, ostensibly, came to survey the bottom and was unable to see anything because it was too dark. In Agios Nikolaos, this is proof of the lake’s mystery and connection to Ancient Atlantis. In Santorini, this is proof of the caldera’s mystery and proof of our relationship to Ancient Atlantis…*

So here’s a couple of pictures of the lake: Crete 14-04-08 192

Crete 14-04-08 193 

When we went down to drink some coffee we passed by some old fishing boats, and I could not resist the temptation to take some photos Crete 14-04-08 198

Crete 14-04-08 203

In the cafe, I took this picture of the lake.

Crete 14-04-08 205

While I was drinking my Frappe metrio me gala, I took advantage of my 10x optical zoom to take this picture of the waiter (owner?)

Crete 14-04-08 200

The frown he has on his face is very similar to the frown’s I saw in Venice on the paintings in the palazzo’s. My wife has this theory that we Roussos’ who have a similar frown, must be descended from Venetians. A book on genealogy in Santorini that my mother read has the same theory. My father agrees with this theory, but adds an addendum, that the Venetians who were our ancestors were originally Greeks who had migrated to Venice and then resettled in Greece! So we Roussos’ are still really Greek …

* Turns out Cousteau did visit both locations…

Delfini Tavern, Plaka Crete

After our taking many, many pretty photos, swimming it was time to eat. So we decided to go to a restaurant recommend by the Rough Guide Crete called Delfini Tavern.

Crete 14-04-08 143

This was a classic Greek fish taverna, whose tables were right next to the sea.

Crete 14-04-08 177 Crete 14-04-08 184

The owners had a menu with a laundry list of useless food items. The right way to order was to ask the waitress what kind of fresh fish was available. You then picked the kind and quantity (500 grams, 750 grams, 1kg), the method of cooking and then she brought them to you. You can also order some appetizers. The tzatziki was well done with the right amount of garlic. The Greek salad had some amazingly tasty tomatoes, and cucumbers.

Here we see Andrew eating an octopus

Crete 14-04-08 174

and some tzatziki.

Crete 14-04-08 176

We had some amazing fish including my all time favorite Barbounia or Red Mullet.

Crete 14-04-08 187

As you can see very little was left after I finished eating my share of the fish.

After we paid, we got up to leave the table, when the owners came after us saying: But how you can leave without eating some fresh fruit? And boy was the fruit fresh. The oranges were unbelievably tasty!

As we left the restaurant, I noticed that one of the interior walls of taverna were being painted by a local painter. As we left, I took a picture at him working…

Crete 14-04-08 189

Swimming in Plaka Create, April 14th 20

After our visit to Spinalonga, my wife, our friend Andrew, and I went for a swim in Plaka.

The beach area was pretty, and the water was very clear and very chilly.

Crete 14-04-08 168

Getting into the water took time

Crete 14-04-08 144

But once in the water we were able to swim and the swim was quite pleasant.

Crete 14-04-08 148

So much so that my wife, who was skeptical of the whole idea of swimming in Greece in April, joined us.

Crete 14-04-08 153

With the Agean as a backdrop, I could not resist some attempts at artistic photos…

Crete 14-04-08 159 Crete 14-04-08 158 Crete 14-04-08 166

Thankfully, NetApp is still paying my salary….

I did find three hand drawn rocks, and I tried to arrange them in an interesting way, sort of as if three buddies were chatting with the sea as a backdrop. Not sure whether I pulled it off…

Crete 14-04-08 170

Spinalonga, Crete

My wife had a paper published in Eurographics 2008 which happened in Crete.

Her husband, being Greek and curiously dissatisfied with his last trip to Crete where he had not had the opportunity to visit the western part of Crete, tagged along.

Today we visited Spinalonga. An island that in the first 50 years of the 20th century was a leper colony.  Before turning into a leper colony, the island had been a Venetian fortress and a thriving Muslim community during the Ottoman period. 

To get to Spinalonga you first have to drive out to village of Plaka. The drive is scenic. My wife and I got out at some point near the village of Agios Nikolaos to take some pictures. Here’s my picture of the area past Agios Nikolaos

Crete 14-04-08 017

And here’s my wife taking a picture

Crete 14-04-08 023

Once you get to Plaka you have to buy a ticket for a boat ride to the island. Crete 14-04-08 032

The island itself clearly shows signs of having been lived on quite recently.

Crete 14-04-08 028

The boat ride is a 10 minute affair costing 7 Euro’s roundtrip. When you arrive you are standing in front of the main entrance into the Leper colony.

Crete 14-04-08 060

What was particularly amazing about our visit was the plethora of wild flowers in bloom that offset the ruins spectacularly.

Crete 14-04-08 075 Crete 14-04-08 081

Crete 14-04-08 086

There is a small exhibit in a restored part of the old Ottoman village.

Crete 14-04-08 068

The exhibit  explains the nature of the Ottoman village and the details surrounding the Leper colony. The exhibit also contains some rather more obscure information about the area. In the 1930’s the area around Spinalonga was used as a refueling stop for hydroplanes that served airmail between England and India. There was also a reference, in the exhibit, to the circumstances surrounding the people who lived in the castle at the time of the Turkish handover in 1718.

The view from the island of the mainland is quite pretty. You can see here some of the remnants of the Venetian fortress walls.

Crete 14-04-08 115 Crete 14-04-08 122

There are some very interesting rock formations that play very nicely with the seas colors.

Crete 14-04-08 120

For some folks who lived in Crete, the impact of the visit is considerable. It is a stark reminder of how for almost 50 years, Greeks mistreated Greeks out of fear and loathing.

As a foreigner to this part of the world, this was a visit to a pretty island with a sordid past, that somehow feels too distant to be relevant any more …

Barcelona: Cal Pep

One of the extraordinary experiences I had in Barcelona was eating tapas at Cal Pep.

Cal Pep is a small hole in the wall:

with a genuine Pep

This restaurant has a backroom that you can make a reservation for, but the real experience is had by sitting at the bar.

The restaurant has a fixed menu of tapas as well as an a la carte offering. My wife and I went with the fixed menu.

The menu began with a tomato, olive-oil and bread appetizer:

Then we were presented with a variety of fish and shell fish dishes:

That were followed by a series of dishes

and and

and ended with two sublime deserts:

and

If you are ever in Barcelona, go to Cal Pep you will not be disappointed.

Barcelona: La Boqueria

Over the July 4th weekend, my wife and I went to Barcelona, Spain. She was attending a conference. I was the spouse.

We stayed at Hotel Turin, a fine little hotel located near La Rambla.

But what made Hotel Turin special was it’s proximity to La Boqueria.

map

I love food. But what I really, really love to do is buy the ingredients of what makes a great meal. I’ve been to farmer’s markets in California, but nothing prepared me for La Boqueria.

The entrance is unassuming enough.

But once you step inside you realize you are in a completely different world.

The fruit:

And the meat:

And the eggs:

When was the last time you ever photographed eggs and put them in your blog? One of the cool things about this vendor is that he sells First Eggs. What’s a first egg? Why the first egg a chicken lays. Seems it’s tastier than normal eggs.

And the charcuterie:

But what made Hotel Turn and La Boqueria special was that bceause of the proximity of the two, I had some extraordinarily tasty breakfasts:

and

Driving in Greece, a public service announcement.

Driving in Greece can be very dangerous, especially for wussy Californian drivers who are used to the point-and-click driving of the Bay Area.

One of the most important rules of the road, a rule that is not in any guide book or any law book is how to negotiate the inter-city roads. In Greece the breakdown lane is a valid driving lane. So if you are a law-abiding American driving below the speed-limit inside the only lane on the road expect to be spat-upon, insulted and sworn at by every driver behind you. The reason is that the break-down lane is where slow traffic drives and the actual lane is used for passing by faster traffic.

I discovered this in my first drive from Athens to Ioannina several years ago. I carefully and slowly drove in the only lane. Drivers behind me honked at me, drivers honked at me as they passed on the right, drivers showed me an open palm (the moutza) and of course as a self-righteous Northern California driver I was wondering how all of this illegal driving could possibly be safe.

As I learned, faster drivers will pass you (on the right, in the other lane) so it’s actually safer to use the breakdown lane to drive.

Please note, that cars do actually use the breakdown lane for brokendown cars. As I learned this weekend in Crete. So be aware of your surroundings.

 

You know it’s time for spring when…

This past weekend I was up in bear valley at a friend’s cabin. We were there with his dogs and my dog to enjoy the snow and the mountains. A few days of R&R.

Whenever we go there we go cross country skiing with the dogs in the backcountry area.

My wife and I don’t own skiis so we had to rent some from the very friendly ski rental area.

While we were returning our stuff, we started to chat with the employees. I remarked that in spite of the excellent ski conditions no one was there. To which the male employee replied that it’s April and in the Bay Area if it’s April the locals don’t ski.

I was about to start laughing, when he then proceeded to complain about the snow. That there had been so much snow that he had been skiing on nothing but powder for months on end. That he and his budies were looking forward to some icy hard pack or spring conditions.

So there you have it, you know it’s time for spring when the ski bums are desperate for the snow to stop falling.

A fun day in Tahoe

My wife and I spent the day having a Tahoe winter experience.

The morning was spent snowshoeing around Meeks bay. My wife had a long standing desire to walk with snowshoes in the snow with her dog. We decided that we would rather be cross country skiing using back-country skiis than snowshoeing. We had a great time, but cross country skiing is just more fun. The dog didn’t notice or care. He had a blast. He was running all over the place, sniffing everything, burrowing his head in the snow, chasing snowballs, barking at falling snow. By the time we came back to the B&B he was fast asleep.

In the afternoon we went cross country skiing at the Tahoe Cross Country Ski Area. This is a cross country ski area that is right on the lake. The snow is not as superb as Royal Gorge but the location is vastly more convenient. A 15 minute drive instead of a 45 minute drive each way from the west shore.This place has a certain amount of charm that the more corporate Royal Gorge somehow lacks. The trails are groomed and the few we did were pleasant. What’s really cool about the cross country area is that they allow dogs on a certain number of their trails. Which if you have a dog and have to deal with the unrelenting war on dogs that seems to be going on, brings a smile to your face. The trails are open to dogs from 3-5 PM on weekends and all day during weekdays.

We originally planned to do the Blue trail, but at intersection H we decided to take a left onto Green. We then skiied until the warming hut and had a fantasy about doing another 4KM loop. But then we realized that the cumulative energy drain that was snowshoeing+skiing was about to kill us. Hence we turned back. On the way back we wanted to do the Special Green loop, but even that exceeded our ability to move. Pushing on with what limited energy reserves we had, we arrived at the lodge, exhausted but happy.

In Tahoe

If you are looking for a great Bed and Breakfast that also let’s you have dogs I recommend Tahoma Meadows B&B. It’s got a set of individual cottages that you can keep your dog in. You can leave the dog in the rooms if they can be crated. Since my dog, Tony, is both crate trained and very civilized I am very pleased with the arrangement.