Author Archives: specialk

Eating at Taverna Kronio in Tzermiado, Crete

After our hike up what we thought was Karfi, we were very hungry. The oranges were very tasty, but somewhat insubstantial.

The guide book offered a few places to go eat, but I wanted to check out what was available before I committed to anything.

We parked in front of a house that belonged to an old widow that I could not resist taking a picture of.

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Our walk around the town made it quite clear that the right place to eat was at Taverna Kronio.

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A small tavern that had been in business since 1965. The current owner, pictured below,  was a local who had married a French woman which explained why the wait staff (husband and son) spoke perfect French and the menu was written in perfect French cursive.

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When we arrived at the restaurant, I was very hungry and demanded to start ordering. His reaction was funny. He goes:

Sit down, relax, this is not a Mc. Donald’s. There is a pace to how you will eat here.

He started the menu with an aperitif offering ouzo. I told him that I was a designated driver, and he gave me a priceless reaction:

Spare me. Soon we will be like Denmark. One little drink will not hurt.

And so we ordered food, chastised for being in a rush, and told to drink and if we needed to wait for the alcohol to be digested to sit and wait because there was no rush.

Across the way from us was a Kafenion with a set of locals who were drinking their coffee. Their mustaches and their looks were quintessentially Cretan.

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Their patience and willingness to take their time to drink their coffee did much to convince this hurried man that he should slow down. P1000586 P1000588

The food was very tasty and very colorful. What I find most interesting in Crete is how vivid the food colors are. The stifado is very red. The yellows/green of the artichoke was very yellow/green. There is something to be said for organically grown produce.

As we were about to leave to head towards the cave where Zeus was supposedly born, the owner warned us to not go. He said, there is a cave, and there is a fee to park, a fee to enter, a fee to smile, a fee to exit, a fee to frown, and if the local bureaucrat smiles he made decide that your car is a fee. With that warning, we decided to turn around and head back to Xersonissos.

Climbing Karfi in Lassithi Crete

When we arrived in Lassithi we decided it would be lots of fun if we went for a hike up Karfi, a small peak with a spectacular view of the plateau and the northern coast of Crete.

The road to the hike began near the village of Tzermiado. The road was a tiny one lane road that winded itself up slowly up the mountain leading to a Stavros Church. We were supposed to get off the road before we got to the church and take a dirt road, but we misread the instructions. We knew we had misread the instructions when we reached a dead end

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and I had to do a three point turn in my Nissan Micra (huzzah for small cars!).

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The hike began in a small valley near a much smaller church off the main road.

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The hike was extremely easy to follow

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with lots of goats pointing the way

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The guide book claimed that there was plenty of shade on the mountain for a picnic. We found no shade except for this tree:

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I suppose if you consider that you are on a mountain top in Crete which was deforested in the Minoan era the mountain looks downright lush with this lone tree providing shade …

There were many pretty flowers, that I could not resist taking pictures of.P1000527 P1000531

We finally reached a fork in the road with a sign that pointed to Karfi

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The only problem is that Karfi was in the opposite direction of the arrow (or so we think based on our guide book) and looks like this P1000563

Unfortunately we only discovered our mistake on the way down from this other peak.

At the top of the mountain

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we took a group photo

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Unfortunately, in our first attempt, I tripped and fell before I could get to my spot next to Andrew. Funnily enough the camera was able to take a picture of the reaction of my wife and Andrew to my fall

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Which looked more gruesome than it was.P1000559

While on the top of the mountain I did put together this 300 degree panorama that looks kinda cool

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The way down was uneventful, and after my fall, I wasn’t that interested in taking any more pictures.

The best oranges, ever

Andrew had remarked the other day that he liked the oranges in Crete, and wondered if we could could buy some. Since the kinds of oranges he wanted could not be bought in a supermarket, I had to find a street side stall or a farmer’s market. Fortunately on the way to Lasithi there was an older man selling all kinds of Cretan produce.

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His oranges looked quite miserable. They were beaten up and dirty and small. Our reaction was to be disdainful of the whole affair and turn to leave. The Cretan noticed our disdain, noticed how we were gingerly picking through his produce, and in a fit of pique, reached for a bag, and began to fill the bag himself.

Convinced that we had offended his Cretan pride, we bought the oranges and headed out, convinced that we had been had. These dirty, small, beaten oranges could not be that tasty, now could they?

Boy were we wrong! These must have been the tastiest oranges we have ever eaten without a hit of the acidity. They were pure breathtaking sweetness. Just look at the orange…

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Andrew heard me moan in pleasure as I ate my orange, and could not be bothered to completely peel his, removing enough skin to begin to eat.

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And he attacked the orange with passion and energy.

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Just look at how juicy the were…

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Agios Nikolaos, Crete

Agios Nikolaos is the home of a bottomless lake (60 meters in depth). What’s interesting about this lake is that it has the same urban legend about Jacques Cousteau that Santorini’s caldera has. In both locations, the bottom is invisible to the naked eye. In both cases, there is a legend about some connection to Atlantis. In both cases, Cousteau, ostensibly, came to survey the bottom and was unable to see anything because it was too dark. In Agios Nikolaos, this is proof of the lake’s mystery and connection to Ancient Atlantis. In Santorini, this is proof of the caldera’s mystery and proof of our relationship to Ancient Atlantis…*

So here’s a couple of pictures of the lake: Crete 14-04-08 192

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When we went down to drink some coffee we passed by some old fishing boats, and I could not resist the temptation to take some photos Crete 14-04-08 198

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In the cafe, I took this picture of the lake.

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While I was drinking my Frappe metrio me gala, I took advantage of my 10x optical zoom to take this picture of the waiter (owner?)

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The frown he has on his face is very similar to the frown’s I saw in Venice on the paintings in the palazzo’s. My wife has this theory that we Roussos’ who have a similar frown, must be descended from Venetians. A book on genealogy in Santorini that my mother read has the same theory. My father agrees with this theory, but adds an addendum, that the Venetians who were our ancestors were originally Greeks who had migrated to Venice and then resettled in Greece! So we Roussos’ are still really Greek …

* Turns out Cousteau did visit both locations…

Delfini Tavern, Plaka Crete

After our taking many, many pretty photos, swimming it was time to eat. So we decided to go to a restaurant recommend by the Rough Guide Crete called Delfini Tavern.

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This was a classic Greek fish taverna, whose tables were right next to the sea.

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The owners had a menu with a laundry list of useless food items. The right way to order was to ask the waitress what kind of fresh fish was available. You then picked the kind and quantity (500 grams, 750 grams, 1kg), the method of cooking and then she brought them to you. You can also order some appetizers. The tzatziki was well done with the right amount of garlic. The Greek salad had some amazingly tasty tomatoes, and cucumbers.

Here we see Andrew eating an octopus

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and some tzatziki.

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We had some amazing fish including my all time favorite Barbounia or Red Mullet.

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As you can see very little was left after I finished eating my share of the fish.

After we paid, we got up to leave the table, when the owners came after us saying: But how you can leave without eating some fresh fruit? And boy was the fruit fresh. The oranges were unbelievably tasty!

As we left the restaurant, I noticed that one of the interior walls of taverna were being painted by a local painter. As we left, I took a picture at him working…

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Swimming in Plaka Create, April 14th 20

After our visit to Spinalonga, my wife, our friend Andrew, and I went for a swim in Plaka.

The beach area was pretty, and the water was very clear and very chilly.

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Getting into the water took time

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But once in the water we were able to swim and the swim was quite pleasant.

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So much so that my wife, who was skeptical of the whole idea of swimming in Greece in April, joined us.

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With the Agean as a backdrop, I could not resist some attempts at artistic photos…

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Thankfully, NetApp is still paying my salary….

I did find three hand drawn rocks, and I tried to arrange them in an interesting way, sort of as if three buddies were chatting with the sea as a backdrop. Not sure whether I pulled it off…

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Spinalonga, Crete

My wife had a paper published in Eurographics 2008 which happened in Crete.

Her husband, being Greek and curiously dissatisfied with his last trip to Crete where he had not had the opportunity to visit the western part of Crete, tagged along.

Today we visited Spinalonga. An island that in the first 50 years of the 20th century was a leper colony.  Before turning into a leper colony, the island had been a Venetian fortress and a thriving Muslim community during the Ottoman period. 

To get to Spinalonga you first have to drive out to village of Plaka. The drive is scenic. My wife and I got out at some point near the village of Agios Nikolaos to take some pictures. Here’s my picture of the area past Agios Nikolaos

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And here’s my wife taking a picture

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Once you get to Plaka you have to buy a ticket for a boat ride to the island. Crete 14-04-08 032

The island itself clearly shows signs of having been lived on quite recently.

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The boat ride is a 10 minute affair costing 7 Euro’s roundtrip. When you arrive you are standing in front of the main entrance into the Leper colony.

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What was particularly amazing about our visit was the plethora of wild flowers in bloom that offset the ruins spectacularly.

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There is a small exhibit in a restored part of the old Ottoman village.

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The exhibit  explains the nature of the Ottoman village and the details surrounding the Leper colony. The exhibit also contains some rather more obscure information about the area. In the 1930’s the area around Spinalonga was used as a refueling stop for hydroplanes that served airmail between England and India. There was also a reference, in the exhibit, to the circumstances surrounding the people who lived in the castle at the time of the Turkish handover in 1718.

The view from the island of the mainland is quite pretty. You can see here some of the remnants of the Venetian fortress walls.

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There are some very interesting rock formations that play very nicely with the seas colors.

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For some folks who lived in Crete, the impact of the visit is considerable. It is a stark reminder of how for almost 50 years, Greeks mistreated Greeks out of fear and loathing.

As a foreigner to this part of the world, this was a visit to a pretty island with a sordid past, that somehow feels too distant to be relevant any more …

Vista Recovery

My computer was on the blitz, blink, disaster.

And after it finally died refusing to boot, I pulled out the Lenovo CD’s to re-install Vista.

Imagine my, genuine Windows ™, surprise when I discovered that I had successfully installed …

Microsoft Windows XP!

So what is Service Pack 2 for Vista why, Windows XP Service pack 3.

Markov

So I am sitting at home watching the game between SJ Sharks and Phoenix Coyotes.

And the announcers are saying that there are no defensemen in the East that can move the puck other than Zdeno Chara.

Well, what about Markov?

This guy gets no respect.

He’s got 55 points.

He’s the quarterback of the best power-play in the NHL.

He’s the lynchpin of the transition game of the best offense in the NHL..

And he’s considered worse than Zdeno Chara?

Give me a break…